High Fidelity

When you have a winning formula down, why mess with it?

That's how I feel about Le Pain Quotidien, the bakery I first fell in love with on our trips to Brussels. I've since been to outlets in London, NYC and now Toronto, and they all look, feel and taste the same...in a good way. You can always count on chatty diners seated at long communal tables made of weathered wood, artisanal breads, hearty soups and salads, frothy cafe au lait served in bowls without handles, and free wifi.

All summer long as I walked by the Toronto Reference Library, I'd glance with anticipation at the corner building across the street at Yorkville Avenue, with its large sign announcing Le Pain Quotidien's pending arrival. When I poked my head in last week to find it had finally opened, it all felt so familiar, bringing back pleasant memories of afternoons wandering along the Rue des Sablons. Before I knew it, I was sipping an iced coffee ($3) and tucking into a generously sized salad of sweet heirloom tomatoes, tangy goat's milk feta and fresh mint ($15).

I wouldn't change a thing!

http://www.lepainquotidien.com/

http://www.lepainquotidien.ca/

Add it to the List

I have to admit, Ottawa wasn't on my list of "must visit" cities in Canada. But when an invitation to a meeting there came with all expenses paid, I decided to arrive a day early for sightseeing. I discovered a user-friendly destination with just the right mix of art, culture, food and shopping to pique my interest in returning with nodrog in the spring.

Arriving was a breeze (just under 3 hours, door to door), thanks to clear skies and flights from downtown on Porter Air. With the Canadian taxpayers footing the bill, I didn't have a choice of hotels, but the Sheraton Ottawa turned out to be more than adequate and within walking distance of everywhere I wanted to go:

First stop: ByWard Market, one of Canada's oldest and largest public markets. Easily explored on foot, the market area is about four blocks square and contains a hodge-podge of flower, fruit and vegetable stands, bookstores, boutiques, galleries, restaurants and vendors selling jewelry and souvenirs. http://www.byward-market.com/

Uh oh - hunger pangs strike. Tempted by a sit-down seafood restaurant, I decide on a quickie lunch instead to give me more time to poke around. The Oh-Ya Cafe Plus & Mediterranean Grill in the market building fits the bill with a greek salad, spanakopita, iced tea and great people-watching from my outdoor seat.

Please, God, find me caffeine that's not Starbucks! Ask and you shall receive. The Carisse Studio Cafe at 495 Sussex Street - billed as "Ottawa's only Photography Gallery/Studio & Eurostyle Cafe" serves the real deal. I sip my extra-strength macchiato surrounded by photos of famous Canadian politicians taken by the owner's husband Jean-Marc Carisse. Don't even ask...the only one I recognize is Pierre Trudeau. http://www.carisse.org/

All juiced up, now I'm ready for a whirlwind tour of the National Gallery of Canada, http:///www.gallery.ca. Luckily, I caught one of the last days of The 1930s: The Making of "The New Man." 200 works of art from Europe, Russia and North America help trace the political and artistic consequences of the decade between the stock market crash of October 1929 and the outbreak of World War II in September 1939. I found myself drawn to paintings of Dalí, Picasso, Kandinsky, Ernst and Pollack, perhaps understanding them for the first time thanks to an extremely well curated exhibition and detailed audioguide. But I most enjoyed paintings by Canadian artists I had never encountered before - from Aba Bayefsky, with his haunting paintings of the Bergen-Belsen Concentration Camp upon its liberation by British troops, to Takao Tanabe's dreamy landscapes of British Columbia. You could easily spend a whole day here! Finally, an art museum in this country worth the price of admission! (Don't get me started on Emily Carr and the Vancouver Art Museum...)

With a quick internet search and a desire for something a little out of the ordinary, I found myself having dinner on the back patio at Sweetgrass, Ottawa's first aboriginal cuisine - where summer doesn't end on Labour Day and where a solo diner couldn't ask for better service (or a more adorable waiter). I can't comment on the authenticity of the cuisine, but the food was interesting, delicious and reasonably priced. The Wabash Rillette ($11), came with three oval mounds of rabbit pate sitting alongside a tangy and colourful relish of pickled rhubarb and cherries. The Mariposa Farm Duck Leg ($28), moist and flavoured with citrus and herbs, resembled a confit and sat atop a crunchy stir-fry mixture of wild rice and shredded peppers, onions, bok choy, basil and mushrooms. 108 Murray Street, http://www.sweetgrassbistro.ca/

Time to contribute to the local economy. I hook up with a friend who's in town for the same meeting and we're on a mission: shoes. The Rideau Centre, your basic urban shopping mall, turns out to be well heeled, http://www.rideaucentre.net/. An hour later, we emerge with two pairs each but craving funky boutiques that aren't chain stores. Frou Frou at 11A William Street, totally satisfies. http://www.froufrouboutique.ca/.

We arrive at Murray Street Kitchen Wine & Charcuterie exactly an hour before our reservation, hoping they'll seat us and they can. It's no coincidence that we're next door to Sweetgrass - I scoped the menu out the night before!

We started out with cocktails ($8.50 each): The Q-Cumber (cucumber, watermelon, lime, Hendricks gin, and triple sec) and the Pear-Lip (golden pear, peach vodka, & fresh grapefruit juice with mint). So far, so good! Next up: "2 meats and 3 cheeses for $25", served on a wood cutting board with bread chips, olives, pickles, and three jellies: berry, pepper and pear. The venison-hazelnut terrine, white bean & garlic pate, and soft, hard and blue cheeses came in generous portions and were incredibly tasty. I can't for the life of me recall the names of the cheeses - even with the prompt of the online menu! (Recommendation: send diners out the door with a custom print-out of what they ate).

Moving right along, we shared two small plate salads that complemented each other nicely: The tuna salad ($14) - lightly smoked BC Albacore tuna, flash grilled cherry tomatoes, Ferme Floralpe goats cheese, tempura of Spicolli’s green beans, field cucumber “noodles” fresh marjoram vinaigrette and olives and the beet salad ($9) - roast baby red beets, pickled baby golden beets, fresh herbs, spiced pecans, Brent Halsall’s honey & Monforte sheep’s yogurt. Please open an outpost in Toronto! The meal would have been a steal had we not ordered a bottle of Condundrum from Sonoma Valley at $67 - an astonishing mark-up of 120% over the LCBO asking price! (I had no idea) http://www.murraystreet.ca/

Trip of a Lifetime

We had an amazing time in Kenya. Some highlights included:








*Getting up close to zebras and wildebeest as we walked through the Loita Hills with a Masai warrior leading the way

*Seeing a little head pop out of the tall grass in the Masai Mara and driving up to find a whole family of lions (male, two females and five little cubs)

*Crossing the crocodile-filled Galana River in barefeet, with a guy carrying a gun at the front of the line and one carrying a spear at the back (and praying they'd have no need to use them)

*Watching hundreds of wildebeest and zebra crossing the Galana River until one of them fell prey to a hungry crocodile and the whole action abruptly stopped

*Swimming in the Indian Ocean off the coast of the island of Lamu

*Meeting so many people who were excited about the possibility of a "Kenyan President" in the US and happy to receive one of the Obama stickers we brought with us!

View pictures from the trip at www.yyzine.org

Second Time's A Charm

Our second trip to Montréal - this time with friends visiting from Brazil - revealed many new charms (see the top 10 list from our first visit at http://yyzine.blogspot.com/2007/10/mad-about-montral.html).

Not surprisingly, food was once again a highlight of the trip:

La Brioche Lyonnaise, 1593 Saint-Denis, http://www.labriochelyonnaise.com/ - this calm oasis in the bustling Quartier Latin, a few steps below street level, serves delicious soups, salads, paninis, quiches and crepes in generous portions. Creamy tomato soup and a grilled chicken salad, ringed with cucumbers, tomatoes and olives and topped with a lemon vinaigrette, more than satisfied my craving for a bite to eat for lunch. A double latte proved essential to an afternoon of sightseeing in Vieux-Montréal. (about $15 per person).

We had dinner our first night at La Colombe, one of the many delightful "BYOB" bistros that make eating in this city affordable and fun. Located along restaurant row on Rue Duluth Est (554 to be exact), this cozy spot offered a $42 table d'hote with a choice of seven entrees that all sounded incredible. After a creamy vegetable "soupe du jour" and a terrine of deer with cranberries, we quickly discovered that the sauces are what distinguish this kitchen. A slightly tart raspberry vinegar sauce was a perfect match for my tender filet of lamb. A delicious wild mushroom sauce accompanied the veal chop. The fig and port glaze that enricled the duck breast was pleasantly sticky and sweet. Only the pork filet's cloying pineapple and honey sauce failed to win our affection. We toasted Colin in absentia for the bottle of wine we packed in our suitcase and now filled our glasses: the 2003 Quilceda Creek Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, rated a perfect score by Robert Parker and rated #2 wine of the year in 2006 by the Wine Spectator The wine was exceptional, with its deep plum nose, tastes of blackberry and chocolate, and long finish. The Osoyoos-Larose bordeaux blend, the result of a joint venture between Vincor Canada and Bordeaux’s Groupe Taillan, was too tannic but opened up as the evening went on and proved quite drinkable. We were divided on which dessert to try, with half ordering the panna cotta with vanilla and passion fruit, and half asserting that chocolate, in the form of a marquise au chocolat, is the only legitimate way to end a meal.

Lunch on our second day was an impromptu picnic courtesy of the vendors at the Atwater Market (http://www.wizgoboutique.com/WWP_Atwater/) The spread included: Three pates - pheasant with raisins, duck with calvados, and ostrich with pistachios. Four cheeses - one mild blue, one medium blue, and two soft runny varieties. Salami with mustard seeds. Two loaves of bread and a box of whole wheat A medley of olives, roasted red peppers, sundried tomatoes, grilled artichokes and marinated mushrooms. A fruit potpourri - strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, blackberries and cherries. A screw-top bottle of cheap white wine, hard cider, and Perrier. And tiny squares of caramel with fleur de sel from Chocolates Genevieve Grandbois - enough for one for each of us! After a feast like that, it's a good thing our dinner reservations weren't until 9:30 that night...

We arrived at Joe Beef (2491 Rue Notre-Dame Ouest, http://www.joebeef.ca/) about 45 minutes early, intending to have a drink first at the McKiernan wine bar next door (2485). With the wine bar closed for a private party, we found the Liverpool House (2501) a suitable substitute. Three black cherry bellinis, champage and a Bloody Mary later, after a snafu that left us waiting thirty minutes after our reservation time for a table, we found ourselves sitting around a booth at Joe Beef, straining our eyes to see the handwritten menu on the chalkboard before us. My lobster bisque had chunks of seafood swimming in a delicious broth that packed a delayed and delightful pepper punch. Four of the five of us ordered the braised lamb shank to share, prepared just as I like it, tender meat falling gently from the bone. A side order of frites - brown and crunchy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, and sprinkled with salt, rosemary and garlic - were addictive.

On our third day, we found ourselves at Jean-Talon Market (http://www.wizgoboutique.com/WWP_JeanTalon/) just in time for lunch. We got revved up on espresso macchiatos at Brûlerie aux quatre vents and then went carb-crazy with two nutella crêpes at Crêperie du Marche (one with strawberry, the other banana) and crunchy frites from Frites Alor, served in a paper cone with three dipping sauces: Américaine (mayo, paprika, garlic, shallots, onions, and harissa); Pistou rosé (mayo, basilic, dried tomatoes, pine nuts, and garlic) and my personal favourite, Limette (mayo, lime, and black pepper). A few sample slices of juicy nectarines and peaches on our way out, and it was nap time!

We perhaps saved our best meal for last at Au Pied de Cochon (526 rue Duluth Est, http://www.restaurantaupieddecochon.ca/) Nodrog hit the nail on the head when he compared the servers here to the glassblowers at Chihuly's studio. There's the physical comparison (these guys are cute and buff!) but more importantly the reverence and respect for the chef and the food. Our questions were answered in loving detail, especially our request for a run-down of the 8 foie gras choices. We settled on the foie gras poutine (a PDC classic, at left) and the Ploque a Champlain, an incredibly rich combination that includes the star ingredient atop a blini with egg, bacon and maple syrup. In a remarkable show of restraint that paid off by leaving us satisfied but not stuffed, we split everything among the 4 of us: two blue cheese, apple and endive salads ($8.50 each), the two foie gras dishes ($23 and $25), the duck in a can ($36), the confit lamb shank ($26), and Pudding Chômeur ($7), a gooey sweet bread pudding with maple syrup. Cardiology consult, please!

As for sightseeing, we discovered a few more ways to entertain ourselves during the day:

*Rent bikes and take a ride to the top of Mont Royal for a panoramic view of the city

*Take a leisurely stroll around the Botanical Gardens

*Window shop along Saint-Denis

Our budget hotel, Auberge Le jardin d'Antoine, was ideally situated in the heart of the Quartier Latin, at 2024 rue Saint-Denis (http://www.hotel-jardin-antoine.qc.ca/). The $118 a night rate ($108 with a CAA/AAA membership card) included a carb-heavy breakfast including fresh St. Viateur bagels and pretty decent coffee. Next time, I'd splurge for a larger room, though. It was pretty cramped for two, especially in the bathroom!

More Than You'd Expect, Part II

In my second installment on Milwaukee after another visit there this weekend, I must say the city continues to impress.

http://yyzine.blogspot.com/2007/12/more-than-youd-expect.html

I discovered a few new spots in the Third Ward. After getting caffeinated at Alterra and contributing to the local economy next door at the Barclay Gallery (sadly, they're having a 50% going out of business sale at the moment), I wandered a bit north to check out the Milwaukee Public Market at 400 N. Water Street. The Market has a little something for everyone, with shops for artisanal bread, fresh roasted coffee, flowers, cheese, sausages, fruits & vegetables, fish, spices, and specialty foods from Mexico and the Mediterranean. I did a little damage at Sheridan's Finest Wines & Generous Spirits (2 bottles of Oregon pinot noir, if you must know...) http://www.milwaukeepublicmarket.org/

Around the corner at 316 N. Milwaukee Street, the Coquette Cafe proved a delightful spot for dinner. The French onion soup with melted gruyere cheese satisfied my craving for comfort food ($5.75). Field greens with Dijon vinaigrette ($5.50) was a light and simple palate cleanser before tucking into the pan-seared wild halibut with arugula, black olives, toasted walnut salad and grapefruit vinaigrette ($19.95). I must admit I was a bit skeptical about ordering fish in one of the country's carnivore capitals, but it was served blissfully medium-rare.

On our last night, we walked from our downtown hotel to the waterfront to admire the scenic views and the Santiago Calatrava-designed Milwaukee Art Museum. Unable to figure out how to crash the private party going on inside, we took to the streets in search of a place for dinner and stumbled upon Alem Ethiopian Village at 307 E. Wisconsin Avenue. Open just 4 months, the city's 2nd Ethiopian restaurant serves up the usual fare of tibs (meat cubes sauteed in various sauces) and wots (stews) in generous portion sizes. I ordered the tibs sampler for one ($17.75) and had to check the bill to make sure they hadn't brought me the version for 2 my mistake!

As I browsed the news stand in the airport waiting for my flight home, I noticed a cover story on the city's 25 best restaurants in this month's issue of Milwaukee Magazine. I bought a copy and tucked it into my bag...it'll come in handy for my next trip!

Rock 'n Roll

In an impressive display of brand loyalty, RT ate at Shizen Sushi three times during our 4-day stay in Victoria, BC. Apparently, the Highlander Roll has addictive qualities. Not to be seen on the menu and ordered only by regulars in hushed tones, the roll is truly one-of-a-kind (just try googling it): Lining the center: tempura shrimp, avocado and ginger. On the outside: a wrapping of thinly sliced rare beef, topped with hoisin, tabasco sauce, honey and chopped spring onion. In Toronto I eat sushi once a week at least and have never had anything like it. Spicy and sweet...I'm thinking beer sales go through the roof on this one! Also not to be missed: the asparagus tempura roll.

Shizen Sushi

1706 Government St, Victoria, BC

http://www.shizensushi.ca/

Leslieville Hotspot

Nothing special outside - feeding frenzy inside

Be prepared to shout when you have dinner at Tomi-Kro on a Saturday night. When the place is packed, the servers are swirling and the percussion is pumping, it can be awfully loud! But once the food starts to arrive and you settle in for some serious eating, you quickly realize why this place is on fire: the kitchen knows what it's doing!

As four adventurous eaters with no food allergies or issues, we ordered a range of dishes to share:

*Peppercorn teriyaki striploin with tempura onion frittes (the peppery meat was seared and served in thin strips alongside a mount of frittes that should also be a side order option on their own...)

*Miami ribs with a soy, honey and ginger-chili glaze (the hit of the evening, the meat was "fall off the bone" tender and the sticky glaze nailed the right balance of hot and sweet).

*Roasted beets with chevre, balsamic vinegar and pistachio (an homage to Jean-Georges's much-loved goat cheese royale, roasted beet marmalade and toasted crushed pistachios?)

*Butter chicken with raita and chili chick peas (the chicken was overdone a tad and could have used a bit more sauce...)

*Sweet chili shrimp, with roasted pineapple and rice noodles (a

*Edamame, with butter and sea salt (served already peeled, this was the one dish we could have been fine without)

*Tempura lobster maki balls (another hit, these perfectly round balls of juicy lobster and rice are best dipped in soy sauce and eaten right away while they're hot and crunchy!).

*Asian greenery with vegetarian oyster sauce (sounds bland but they were an ideal match for the bold, flavour-forward dishes we ordered).

Note to foie gras lovers: there were several options on the menu we didn't end up ordering but which looked pretty amazing:

*Foie gras creme brulee with lingone berry jam and red onion pickle

*Seared scallops with wilted spinach and mushroom foie gras jus

It would easy to simply characterize Tomi-Kro as a pan-Asian or fusion tapas joint, but those wouldn't do the menu and its execution justice. Rest your voice and come ready for a great meal inspired by the cuisines of Japan, China, India, Thailand, Greece, France and Italy.

$260 for four, including a bottle of wine, two scotches and two decaf espressos
Tomi-Kro
1214 Queen East @ Leslie St.

Tel. 416-463-6677